Once summer crowds are over, it is time to put order on the table and get back to good habits in the kitchen. If you are into it, we invite you to know some of the spoon dishes that usually smolder in the hearths of the city. The chickpeas stew, on its either recipe, “montañes” or “lebaniego”, the “caricos” (red beans) and other legumes based stews are a good example of this simple, humble and versatile culinary art that invites
you like few others to turn lemons into limonade . Gastronomy of centuries and of great nutritional value that goes direct to the palate. If what you need is a good spoon dish because it is cold outside, because the body asks you so or simply because you are worth it, here are some suggestions that smell heavenly.
Bodega Fuente Dé
The cradle of the chickpeas stew. Currently immersed in a renovation process (it will reopen in the second half of October), this small family restaurant is as charming as it often happens with its dishes. More than generous rations of chickpeas stew capable by themselves of satisfying the emptiest stomachs. The “picón” (blue type) cheese trade-mark of the house and a tea of the port complete an always delicious meal and of balanced bill. Booking recommended.
Monday, Tuesday and Saturday: chickpeas stew “montañés”
Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday: chickpeas stew “lebaniego”
Peña Herbosa, 5
Tlf. 942 213 058
Classic inn decorated in turquoise blue -or watery green- and white in one of the most central streets and of highest pedestrian traffic. Traditional cooking in a cozy atmosphere and with family treatment. Its chickpeas stew “lebaniego” treasures some distinction well deserved.
Monday and Saturday: chickpeas stew “lebaniego”
Thursday: chickpeas stew “montañés”, Wednesday: “fabada” (Asturian beans stew) Friday: “caricos” (red beans) with black pudding
Tlf. 942 231 020
Almost opposite to El Castellano, with which it shares ownership, this traditional place offers homemade meals at reasonable prices. Six tables with long wooden benches in the interior together with a covered terrace give polish this place of genuine and traditional atmosphere and of clientele very diverse.
Monday and Friday: chickpeas stew “lebaniego”
Wednesday and Sunday: chickpeas stew “montañés”
Phone: 942 230 024
The salt and the pepper of this popular street full of bars that goes back in its eighties. Tavern of a faithful and lively parish that daily renders a more than demanded menu which never falls short of a hot pot to taste at either in the view of the bar counter or in the dining room that looks towards the kitchen. Continuous passage of wines and smiles, in equal parts.
Monday, Thursday and Sundays: chickpeas stew “montañés”
Saturday (from November on): chickpeas stew “lebaniego” and “judiones con nécora” (giant beans with swimcrab)
Peña Herbosa, 21
Phone: 942 225 785
La Casa del Indiano
Sheltered by the central Eastern Market, this place of two spacious bar counters and a well-dressed central dining room has made of hot pots one of its main reasons of existence. Selected raw ingredients give form to a culinary proposal that varies everyday though always makes room to the “caricos” (red beans) during the week.
Monday: potatoes and fish; Tuesday: braised beans; Wednesday: stewed chickpeas
Thursday: rice with clams; Friday: chickpeas stew “montañés”
Hernán Cortes, 4
Phone: 942 074 660
Away from the bustle, except for the trains, this old-fashioned tiled tavern dispenses excellent chickpeas stews –“montañés” and “lebaniego”- always present in its menu although without a pre-set weekly order. They accept orders to delight with other spoon dishes.
Peña del Cuervo, 8
Phone: 942 237 761
A bit hidden but just a stone’s throw away from the busy street of Tetuán which can be seen from its corner watchtower, this simple place with sober decoration and a somewhat quiet atmosphere serves strong dishes anchored on the land and far from foolishness at popular prices. Appreciated menu.
Friday and Sunday: chickpeas stew “montañés”
Tuesday and Saturday: chickpeas stew “lebaniego”
La Montañesa, 7
Phone: 942 222 614
Restaurant of reference in this popular steep street that houses not a few bars and nightclubs. Motley bar counter of snacks (“pinchos”) of estimable large proportions, that is roofed by a sea of hanging hams. Homemade and traditional cuisine.
Wednesday and Friday: chickpeas stew “lebaniego”
Thursday and Sunday: chickpeas stew “montañés”
Río de la Pila, 10
Phone: 942 221 074
After more than three years of running the kitchen of a well-known restaurant in the outskirts of the city, Mame Herrero reappears in the heart of Puertochico to dispatch first-quality fish and meat, as she pleases. Rice dishes and a variety of entrees round off a menu in which the “carico montañés” (red beans) and the chickpeas with monkfish and big prawns request their own seat. Attentive and professional service.
Phone: 638 381 412
Closed on Sunday night and Monday
Tribeca Bar & Lunch
Corner establishment with special bar hours offering food, drink and music on an endless schedule. A new catering concept that enjoys the enthusiasm shown by a more than heterogeneous audience. Snacks, portions and “cazuelitas” (small pans) buckle a menu in which every single day the chickpeas stew is announced. Also breakfasts.
Hernán Cortés, 18
Phone. 942 051 221
One of the great names of the local gastronomy that nurses the bar counter while in the tables at the entrance it accommodates those who have a tight schedule or simply prefer a lighter and more informal meal. A good selection of cold and hot portions that share spotlight with five dishes of the day – one for each weekday- which are only served at noon.
Wednesday: chickpeas stew “montañés”
Friday: chickpeas stew “lebaniego”
Gómez Oreña, 15
Phone: 942 314 149